Hanoi

Hanoi, population of 6 million, was our last stop in Vietnam. Our first night in the city, we headed for the streets on a mission to find the best street food in town. We settled on a popular place serving rice and pork. This meal was one of many street food stall meals which was nothing short of amazing.

Chris eating rice, corn and caramelized pork.

Katherine’s favorite street meal, consisting of rice noodles, hot broth, pork, fried onion, crushed peanuts and a massive plate of fresh herbs. We also ordered crab spring rolls.

One of the highlights of the city was vietnamese coffee overlooking the lake in Old Town.

While in Hanoi we toured the famous Hanoi prison where American POWs were held during the Vietnam War. The prison/museum mostly focused on Vietnam’s fight for independence from the French. However, there were two rooms dedicated to the American/Vietnam war, specifically the treatment of the American POWs. These rooms told of the wonderful treatment provided to the POWs, including Christmas dinner. As we know, this does not align with the stories told by John McCain and others. So the real story is open for debate depending on story-teller.

John McCain’s flight suit.

Pictures of the POWs celebrating Christmas.

Our last two days were spent on a boat in Halong Bay. Having decided to leave this reservation until last minute (hoping we could get a discounted journey during the low season), our boat of choice was booked and we ended up on a Luxury cruise – blowing our travel budget out of the water! But learning the cheep options have rats and/or increased potential of sinking; we considered the money well spent which also guaranteed us a life-vest!

Our cabin room was complete with mini-bar and marble bathroom! Could it be mistaken for the Ritz Carlton?

Chris lounging on the top deck.

View overlooking Halong Bay. I know it looks photo shopped!

Kayak trip off the main boat through a floating fishing village. This fishing village of 700 lives on the water, having both a floating school and bank. One of the many seafood items harvested by the village is elephant ear clams, which were severed for dinner that night on our cruise.

Chris eating elephant ear clams trying to win cheesiest smile of the trip.

After dinner, we were given the opportunity to fish for squid. Katherine, originally not keen on the event, became the squid fishing champ with a total catch of three squid! For the record books (not that anyone was counting), Katherine – 3, Boat Captain – 2, Chris – 1, Everyone else on the boat – 0.

Katherine showing off one of her many squid.

We finished the trip with morning ti chi and a long four hour drive back to Hanoi. Again there no seat belts and the driver took the liberty of driving anywhere that other cars weren’t which included on coming traffic lanes.

Chris walking through the streets of Old Town Hanoi. The sidewalk is mostly filled with people (cooking, sitting, drinking, selling goods) and motorbikes. There is usually very little room to walk, often requiring you walk with the traffic on the road.

Katherine enjoying a glass of fresh beer. Note she is the only female in this bar or as we prefer to call it the frat house.

Woman cutting pineapple.

Hoi An

Hoi An is a charming little city 30km south of Da Nang. Hoi An use to be a major port, but when the local river silted up, Da Nang took over the regions main port. Hoi An was mostly untouched during the Vietnam War and thus the town continues to have a number of 17th century buildings. Due to the French occupation of Hoi An, this town looks like a small French village in the middle of Vietnam!

Picture of the historical houses in Hoi An.

Day one was a visit to the famous My Son Cham remains. Unfortunately, these remains were mostly destroyed during the Vietnam war. This is a poor man’s version of Angor Wat. Katherine disagrees with this comment and liked the visit saying that its just a different beauty.

The crater in this picture is one of the many holes surrounding the My Son ruins, showing the impact of the US military bombs.

Hoi An is known for its many tailor shops. There are over 300 tailor shops in this town of 70,000. However, we were on a mission to find the best shop and order our first tailored custom suits.

Chris getting his second suit fitting. Hanh, our assistant, told Chris ‘you so skinny, your normal closes no fit’. Clearly she wasn’t impressed with the extra large white undershirt (Chris having packed 15 white undershirts for this trip, you might notice a trend in the majority of his pictures!).

Our second day in Hoi An, we signed up for a local bike ride through the countryside. This was a huge highlight of the trip. We enjoyed bike riding through the fields of rice, herbs and lotus flowers.

This farmer gave Katherine a hand picked pick lotus flower, she couldn’t have been happier.

Chris in the ‘7 star’ shrimp farmer accommodation. The shrimp farmer sleeps in this palm tree shack to protect his shrimp farm from vandals for the two months which is the time it takes to raise the shrimp. Average earnings from the two months is about $2,000.


This woman is 70! She looked amazing. She is picking fresh herbs for her lunch – coriander, thai basil, mint, garlic and lemongrass. We had these herbs often in the local meals, the mixture of flavors makes every meal a culinary delight.

The Vietnamese people are superstitious and many of them use fortune tellers. Our tour guide was getting married in two weeks and unfortunately he had to have his wedding on a Tuesday because that was the best karma according to the fortune teller. Also while we were there the lunar moon was on. For the first two hours after dark the town turns out all of the lights and the town is illuminated by lanterns. The french influence made the town come alive and you felt as if you were living in the 17th century. Little girls would also sell luminaries that you could float down the river. As pictures could not do this event justice we have chosen not to include them here. (Chris also forgot the camera at the hotel in full disclosure.)

The marble mountains are half way between Da Nang and Hoi An and a site not to be missed. Although our taxi driver was less than impressed and there wasn’t much of a write up in the guide book we found it fascinating. Climbing through the mountains required going up marble steps which were protruding through the earth. From the lookout at the top you had panoramic views of the city, ocean, and surrounding areas. Also there were caves in the mountains where Buddas had literally been carved out of stone. The fact that there was hardly anyone there made it quite enjoyable as well.

This picture is of the stretch of land between Da Nang and Hoi An called China Beach. China Beach was the landing point for many American military soldiers. I thought of my Uncle John while taking this picture, as I know he was once on this beach; I send my best to his family and all of the veterans of war.

Ho Chi Minh

Ho Chi Minh city, formerly Saigon, is the capital of Vietnam. It is a large city with crazy traffic! We arrived in Ho Chi Minh mid afternoon the day before the Hung King Festival.

Upon leaving the airport there were a number of helpful people outside willing to charge you twice the usual price for transportation to your accommodation. After some healthy banter with our new friends we were off in a cab ride. The driver says no need for a seat belt just required for the driver (not so comforting when driving in your lane is more of a loose suggestion then a law).

Rush hour

Motorcycles driving at us on the sidewalk!

Our hotel was down two alley lanes (very busy and tiny alley lanes!). We stayed with an elderly couple, whom rent the three rooms in their house. Vy, our host, would sleep in the kitchen and her husband would sleep on the couch.

Katherine showing you the first alley.

Chris showing you the second alley and our sleeping accommodation.

Once settled in we immediately headed for the famous war museum previously know as the war crimes museum… the change in name would require a whole new blog post. Inside the museum it was quickly apparent that the museum was set from the perspective of the winners, being North Vietnam. Some may even say the museum was more propaganda than history. Never the less it was a different view than we had ever heard and the different perspective was thought provoking. Our overall take away was that atrocities were committed on both sides and no one “wins” in war.

The next day we did a day trip to the Chi Cu tunnels. These were the famous tunnels the Viet Cong used during the Vietnam war. We were given the opportunity to crawl through the tunnels. There are over 200km of tunnels. *Note if you are at all claustrophobic this is not a good idea as the tunnels are cozy at best. You could see how the smaller more agile Vietnamese would have a distinct advantage.

Chris inside one of the Viet Cong escape holes. This hole would have been covered with a small door and tree branches. You can understand how in the middle of the jungle, the American soldiers would walk right over this tiny hide-away!

Inside the tunnel. The Viet Cong lived in these tunnels for years during the Vietnam war. They would hide in the tunnels during the day time. At night, they would come out to bathe in the Mekong river.

Picture of the royal palace, the last place taken over at the end of the war requiring the final remaining US citizens to be air lifted out for safety.

Another day we went to the Mekong Delta to understand what life was like living on the water. The coconut peanut candy is must try if anyone does ever make it this way.

Traffic jam!

The last day was a quick trip to China town and another market. An interesting fact is that at one point during the anti communism days most of the Chinese were exiled from Vietnam and have only recently started coming back.

One of the many shops in the China town market. These shops are filled to the max with odds and ends. This women has to crawl over her goods to get into her stall. The stalls have anything and everything for sale, from fresh fruit to nail polish.

Siem Reap

Our travels to Phnom Penh were a sobering few days, but our travels to Siem Reap were awe inspiring with our visit to the famous temples of Ankor Wat. We had a wonderful day exploring the temples, each one having a magical feel.

Sunrise at Angor Wat.

Temple used in Tomb Raider. The trees are growing all over!

During our day excursion to the temples, we got to know our tuk-tuk driver, Nim, whom was the nicest man – paid only $17 for driving us all day (with a 5am sunrise pick-up). We asked Nim how he got into the Tuk Tuk business. He used to be a motor bike junk yard dealer exporting most of his sales to Thailand. With the dispute/war he is no longer able to sell products and therefore had to look for other ways to support himself. He is one of the many Cambodians you want to help and we wish him all the best.

The other highlight of Siem Reap is Pub street with 50 cent drafts… Chris was in heaven.

The next day we spent wandering through the markets. Katherine bought a few gifts from different shops. One shop was know for recycling plastics, bikes, and motobike parts into gifts as plastic waste is a huge problem in Cambodia. Further buying from selected distributors ensures the money is given back to the Cambodian people.

These purses are made from plastic bags.

Chris paid to let little fish eat the dead skin off his feet, clearly it tickles!

All in all Cambodia can be the wonderful place that the travel books describe but as soon as you wander off the beaten path there is an obvious dark side that still exists, with extreme poverty, corruption issues, a lack of drinking water and domestic violence.

Despite the corruption, there are many amazing and wonderful people in Cambodia whom we bonded with from the twelve year old girl whom sold us a scarf to the sixteen year old boy selling books. The Cambodian people touched our hearts. Cambodia was an interesting eye opening experience that made us realize how blessed we are and mull over how we can do more.

Phnom Penh

The capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh, was eye opening. It felt like the dirtier and poorer little brother of Bangkok. (Go to lonely planet if you want the dreamy version.) Phnom Penh is a city which seems to be growing to fast for its infrastructure.

Before arriving in Cambodia, we watched the movie ‘The Killing Fields.’ This movie provided insight into the horrific mass murdering of the Cambodian people during the end of the 1970’s. The scenes behind this movie were further clarified with our visit to S-21 and one of the killing field locations. The Cambodian people were tortured and the majority killed by their own people under the rule of Pol Pot. The head count is not exact, but estimated to be between 2-3 million.

During our visit to S-21, an old high school turned into prison cells, we read the story of the known 7 survivors of the 20,000 people sent to S-21. We walked through the prison cells and viewed the various torture devices.

One of the many torture devices. This was used to hang people upside down until unconscience. The buckets below were used to wake the unconscience for further torture.

After our visit to S-21, we visited one of the largest killing field locations. This location marked the ground were thousands of people were killed and buried. During the heavy rains in Cambodia, new bones are uncovered yearly.

Bones coming out of the ground just off the walking path.

Shrine filled with the bones of those killed at this killing field location.

During our trip, we also visited the Royal Palace, seeing the famous emerald Buddha and silver pagoda. The silver pagoda wasn’t a pagoda at all. In our search of every map and sign on the grounds, we could not find this famous pagoda. Upon asking, people kept pointing back to the temple housing the emerald Buddha. We were so confused. Finally the guard lifted the carpet to reveal silver flooring. It was only later we learned the silver pagoda was destroyed and the remnants were turned into tile flooring. We had been walking on it the whole time!


Entrance to the Royal Palace

One of the many shrines around the Royal Palace grounds. (Katherine had to pay extra for those stylish pants, as shorts must go below the knees. In American fashion, Chris’ shorts were below his knees. Watch out Australian men!)

The Khmer New Year is April 14, 15 and 16. We had high hopes for fireworks and celebrations. We later learned the wealthy leave the country and most shops close. During the Khmer New Year, most Cambodians go to the temples to pay their respect. As such, we went the temple to check out the festivities.

The temple in Phnom Penh only costs a dollar for foreigners – what a scam! However, we decided to pay the fine after meeting Frank May the previous evening. Frank May is from Sydney, but was working in Cambodia at the time of his arrest by the Cambodia government. Frank’s stories were nothing short of crazy. He told us to get out of the country as fast as possible if we were ever arrested. After performing a quick fact checking we deduced his stories were at least partially true. Google him if this interests you.

People setting birds free in the temple as a symbolization of their freedom in the New Year.

This woman is selling incense in the temple. Looking at her pile of cash, you might think she is rich! However, the Cambodian reil to the US dollar is 1 dollar to 4,000 reil. Sadly, she is a millionaire in a currency which is worth very little. We have yet to receive change in Cambodia, if your bill is 7.50 and you paid with US 10, you will receive in change two US dollars and fifty cents in reil or 2,000 reil.

Hong Kong

We have heard that Hong Kong is the New York of Asia. Upon arrival we could see why. It was a Wednesday night but it felt like New Year’s Eve. People were everywhere and everything was “all go.”

Before arriving in Hong Kong we watched The World of Suzie Wong which was a great prelude to the city. We started off with a ferry from the Kowloon side to Hong Kong Island. The atmosphere was electric and something words can’t explain; people were going everywhere and you felt apart of something.

Famous floating market, which was shown in the movie ‘The World of Suzie Wong’ and been in Hong Kong since the 1970’s. This restaurant can seat up to 2,000 people!

Boats in the harbor on our ferry ride to the jumbo kingdom floating restaurant.

The HIGHLIGHT of Hong Kong is supposed to be this place called The Peak… by the picture below I think you can tell why but the weather was not cooperating when we were there.

Chris in front of the expansive view of Hong Kong city.

What it should look like without the fog.

Every night at 8pm there is a light show over the Hong Kong bay. We stumbled upon the intercontinental bar which has an optimal view of the harbor and the light show.

The next day we explored more of the city, with the large prestigious malls on the Hong Kong island side offering real Rolex watches and Gucci bags and the street vendor stalls on the Kowloon side offering the more affordable, but fake options. Chris kept telling me, “no one can tell the difference, they look affordable.”

We spent several hours in the Hong History Museum. The history was insightful and explained how England obtained control over Hong Kong years ago. The end of the museum discussed the return of Hong Kong to China in 1997.

Commemorative statue upon the return of Hong Kong to China.

Kyoto

Heading to Kyoto provided us the opportunity to take one of Japan’s famous bullet trains. It took just over 2 hours; a normal train would have taken longer than 8 hours. The train was like traveling in a luxury sedan with plenty of leg room, a reclining seat and wireless internet. We were so comfortable we fell asleep and forgot to take any pictures.

We thought Kyoto was a sleepy little town which we would easily be able to conquer in two and half days, but boy were we wrong. Upon arrival we were both quite hungry and headed to a Cafe called Cafe bibliotechica Hello! When we walked in I was’t sure if we were in Melbourne or Japan. The menu was written in english and included sandwiches with ham, cheese and fig. The food was further served in typical Melbourne fashion with Katherine’s meal coming 30 minutes before my meal. I digress as the belly’s were full and we were onto the adventure.

First stop Ninjo Castle. Can somebody say Kungfoo Fighting…

Next stop was the imperial palace. Note to self for further reference a number of temple’s require advance approval so consider sending a letter ahead if you have any must see temples.

Day two started with the Kamakera Dera temple. This temple is known for its love rocks. Legend has it that if you are able to walk the 18 meteres between the two rocks with your eyes closed you will be able to find love without assistance. If you miss the rock you are screwed… Chris was up to the challenge. Unfortunately there was a pesky tour group between the two rocks that created unforseen obstacles. Luckily Katherine came to the rescue stepped in and assured safe passage between the two rocks.

Next we attended a Gesha show. Fun fact the kimono outfits take 6 months to make.

Followed by a traditional tea ceremony (I think we got scammed).

The last day we started at a famous temple with red torri (I agree they look orange). These go on for 4K around the temple property, mostly up a hillside. It is also the setting of a movie.

Last thing of the trip was to go to the Japanese baths. The baths are a spiritual experience where the men and women are separate. You strip down to your birthday suit and go in hot baths and saunas. We chose a picturesque bath in the mountains. Sorry no photos were allowed which I think we are all thankful for.

Cherry blossom ice cream! Several steps up from the purple sweet potato ice cream. We weren’t bold enough to try the green tea ice cream.

Chris starting his journey down the Path of Philosophy, a cherry blossom lined canal which takes about 30 minutes to complete passing several temples and shrines. The path was believed to be used by a famous philosopher for daily meditation.

Chris finishing his journey down the Path of Philosophy – improved?

Tokyo

A whirlwind passed and we have arrived in Tokyo. After a long day of air travel and three metro changes, we arrived at our hotel and the “Japanese” style bedding our backpacker budget could afford.

“Japanese” style bedding… aka the floor.

The next day was filled with seeing the sites. We were in luck as it is early spring and it is Cherry Blossom season! Cherry blossoms are a symbol of the journey of life and very special to the Japanese people.

Chris showing the line of people cueing to get into the Pachinko parlour at 9:45 in the morning! It must open it’s doors at 10. Pachinko is a popular form of gambling, where you take dime sized metal balls and drop them into the top of the machine and watch them funnel through pegs in an attempt to get your metal ball into the big money slots – similar to Plenko on the Price is Right. (For all those wondering a windfall profit was not made at this establishment.)

Tokyo tower

The very famous Tijishi fish market was high on our list of Tokyo sites. Waking up at 4:30, we caught the first train to the other side of the city in an attempt to obtain one of the many coveted visitor passes. In typical Chris and Katherine style, our research was incomplete and we missed out on the visitor day passes into this Tuna auction spectical! We later learned, that the gates might not open until 5am, but people start cueing at 3:30! Missing out on the tuna auction, we headed for the ‘secret’ hole in the wall sushi restaurant in the market called Sushi-Dai, only to learn our secret was shared by the masses, resulting in a 5 hour wait! We opted for the venue next door with a thirty minute wait. As such, we had our first sushi meal in Tokyo at 6am at a venue with the freshest fish – literally coming from the market floor only hours before.

Yum, nothing like raw fish at 6am.

Sumo wrestling

Sumo’s stretching!

Statue of Liberty and Golden Gate Bridge (In Tokyo)

Yebisu beer factory

Our last day took us out of the city to Kamakura – home of the big budda. I am almost positive I visited this big budda when I was little, so I was excited to go back and re-live the memories from so many years before.

Jetstar competition winners???

Purple sweet potato ice cream – it tastes just like it sounds


Bride in the city shrine

Melbourne

Melbourne has been our home for the past three years. We could not have asked for more from our time in this amazing city of hidden lane-ways and footy fanatics. Thanks to all of the wonderful friends who made lasting memories.

The start of our next chapter has begun. As a way to stay connected and share our experiences we have created this blog so you can continue to play a pivotal part in our lives.

Our last skinny cap in Melbourne : (

Chris’ last week in the PwC Melbourne office.

Good-bye to all of our amazing friends.